Pioneers & Immigrants
Beaded Bodice circa 1900
Helga Johnson Gothe (1862-1938) Gladys Oberg (1907-2003) donated this bodice. It may have been her mother’s, Helga Johnson Gothe of Marquette. |
Satin Bodice circa 1900
Caroline Dennis Penglase (1870-1946) Caroline or Carrie Dennis was married to John Penglase (1848-1925), Marquette Co. Sheriff. Carrie was John’s third wife. John was first married to Rosina Oliver and they had three children. She died when she was 26. He married her sister Mary Ann (who had children from a previous marriage, including Carrie). They had three children together. Mary Ann died in 1881 when she was only 34. Carrie and John had five children together. Several of the children died in infancy in the first two marriages, and the children that lived to adulthood died in their twenties or thirties. It’s possible the two mothers died as a result of complications from childbirth as well. This satin bodice has a lining with three rows of ruffles to help create the loose, blousy shape. |
Hematite Earrings and Hair Brooch pre 1855
Flavia Barbeau Pendill (1832-1908) Flavia Pendill is wearing these earrings and the small hair brooch in this photograph in the late 1800s. Flavia was born in Sault Ste. Maire in 1832 to Peter Barbeau, a fur trader, and his wife, Archange Lelonde Barbeau. Flavia married James P. Pendill in 1855 and moved to Marquette that year. He set up a mercantile business on Superior St. (now Baraga Ave.). Later his sons took over the business which became Pendill Drug Store. He was mayor of Negaunee while living there briefly. Later he was mayor of Marquette and Michigan State Representative. We know Flavia was a talented quilter as the MRHC has several of the quilts she made. She had nine children. Her only surviving daughter was Olive Pendill who served as a nurse in the Spanish American War and later in Marquette as St. Luke’s School of Nursing first superintendent of nursing. The first brooch is made with woven hair. The back is inscribed with her initials before her marriage: F.M.T.B. for Flavia Maria Theresse Barbeau. Because of this, we know the brooch is pre 1855. The second, larger brooch is known as a swing brooch; it is reversible. One side is made of woven hair, the other is an enameled floral design. Flavia was the eldest of three children. When she was about 14 in 1847, her three or four year old brother Auguste died. This brooch may be made with his hair as was a common mourning custom. In two different photographs, Flavia is wearing this brooch. She herself lost several of her own children: an infant, Ralph, infant twins, a twelve year old, and her second born, Henry drowned while he was at college. They all died in the 1870s. Perhaps the swing brooch is made of hair of her deceased children. Toddler Dress and Jacket
Mary Florence Grant Pendill (1865-1904) Florence, as she was known, married James Pendill, son of Flavia and James Pendill in 1887. Her father, Claudius Grant was the first circuit court judge in the UP. Her grandfather, Alpheus Felch, was a US Senator and Michigan’s fifth governor. Florence was born in Lebanon, Michigan and attended Kepler Hall in Kenosha, Wisconsin. She had three children, including Claudius Pendill. This outfit is all hand stitched, mainly with a simple running stitch. Pictured here are four generations: Alpheus Felch, Mrs. Claudius Felch Grant, Florence Pendill, and her young son Claudius. |
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Jewelry Collection of Frank and Mary Jane Pendill Family
Some of these pieces of jewelry may have been passed down from Flavia Pendill to her daughter in law Mary Jane and her two daughters. These may have been worn by Mary Jane or her daughters (or both generations).
Matching Necklaces Mary Jane Mitchell Pendill (1856-1943) Eldest son, Frank married Mary Jane Mitchell in 1877. Mary Jane is pictured here wearing earrings which she had made into these necklaces for her two daughters, Sarah or “Sadie” and Lottie. Mary Jane also had a son, Pierre. |
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Immigrants
Embroidered Hungarian Silk Shawl circa 1880
Catherine Solka (1856-1931)
Catherine immigrated to the US, coming to Ishpeming in 1886. She was from the Humene region of Hungary (today it is part of eastern Slovakia). Catherine married Andrew who worked for Oliver Mining Co. They had two boys.
The shawl is made of silk with machine embroidery. Hungarian embroidery is famous for its large colorful designs. This must have been a well-loved object which reminded Catherine of her home country. She may have worn it, or displayed it on a piece of furniture in her home.
Boy’s Linen Shirt circa 1868
Jacob Smith (1856-1936)
Barbara Smith (1812-1896)
Jacob’s mother Barbara Schmidt or Smith spun, wove, and sewed this shirt for her son Jacob when he was 12 and living in Prussia in 1868. It is linen which is made out of the plant flax. This shirt has bone buttons and top stitching on the cuffs. He immigrated to the US two years later, possibly wearing this very shirt. He married Augusta, they had four children, and he operated a grocery store in Marquette.
Barbara Smith also moved to Marquette as did her three children. In 1880 she was living with her daughter Catrina and her son-in-law, Henry Blemhuber at their farm in Marquette Township.
Pictured here is Jacob Smith on the right circa 1910 at 315 W. Washington, the primary location of his store.
Black Traveling Suit and Jewelry, 1911
Josephine Makela
This suit was made in Finland and worn for Josephine’s immigration. She was a widow with six children, but was only able to bring one child with her to the US. She emigrated on August 11, 1911.
This was Josephine’s bracelet. Josephine is pictured on the brooch when she was 23 years old, the summer before she married circa 1900.
Wool Traveling Suit
Anna Dagmar Ylimutka Wahtera (1887-1967)
Anna migrated from Finland to the US as a single woman circa 1900. This wool suit was made in the late 1800s and worn to her new home. She emigrated via Halifax, Nova Scotia. A sponsor from Marquette paid her travel expenses. She came here and worked as a domestic for her sponsor to repay her debt.
Later she married Edward Wahtera. Edward worked as a foreman at Cliff Dow Chemical Plant in Marquette. The couple had four children, Edward died from the flu in 1919 when Anna was about 31 years old. Anna turned their home at 326 Summit into a boarding house to support her family.
This outfit also has the petticoat (or slip) with machine made cutwork lace.
Comparing the two outfits:
These two outfits were both made circa 1900 in Finland, and share many features. Both make use of the fabric’s selvages. The salvage is the finished edge of the fabric, on printed cotton fabric, it is often white. In the black outfit the selvage is black and white striped. In Anna’s wool outfit the selvage shows as a loop of thread which is carried up the side while weaving. Although using the selvage may look less professional, it saves time, fabric, and money and the garment is less bulky. Both were likely made by a skilled seamstress at home.
The silhouette or shape of the garments is similar with a loose blouson front with and an asymmetrical front. This was a popular silhouette in the 1890s through the 1910s. The large puffy sleeves of the wool outfit, known as “leg-o-mutton” for being shaped like a sheep’s leg, was also a popular trend. Both of the hems measure about three yards or 9 feet around. The hem of the black outfit has a stiff trim.
The brown wool outfit has a small waist which would be fitting for a young woman. The black outfit is much larger which makes sense for a middle aged woman who has had six children. The pleats on the black skirt have been let out to make it bigger.
Catherine Solka (1856-1931)
Catherine immigrated to the US, coming to Ishpeming in 1886. She was from the Humene region of Hungary (today it is part of eastern Slovakia). Catherine married Andrew who worked for Oliver Mining Co. They had two boys.
The shawl is made of silk with machine embroidery. Hungarian embroidery is famous for its large colorful designs. This must have been a well-loved object which reminded Catherine of her home country. She may have worn it, or displayed it on a piece of furniture in her home.
Boy’s Linen Shirt circa 1868
Jacob Smith (1856-1936)
Barbara Smith (1812-1896)
Jacob’s mother Barbara Schmidt or Smith spun, wove, and sewed this shirt for her son Jacob when he was 12 and living in Prussia in 1868. It is linen which is made out of the plant flax. This shirt has bone buttons and top stitching on the cuffs. He immigrated to the US two years later, possibly wearing this very shirt. He married Augusta, they had four children, and he operated a grocery store in Marquette.
Barbara Smith also moved to Marquette as did her three children. In 1880 she was living with her daughter Catrina and her son-in-law, Henry Blemhuber at their farm in Marquette Township.
Pictured here is Jacob Smith on the right circa 1910 at 315 W. Washington, the primary location of his store.
Black Traveling Suit and Jewelry, 1911
Josephine Makela
This suit was made in Finland and worn for Josephine’s immigration. She was a widow with six children, but was only able to bring one child with her to the US. She emigrated on August 11, 1911.
This was Josephine’s bracelet. Josephine is pictured on the brooch when she was 23 years old, the summer before she married circa 1900.
Wool Traveling Suit
Anna Dagmar Ylimutka Wahtera (1887-1967)
Anna migrated from Finland to the US as a single woman circa 1900. This wool suit was made in the late 1800s and worn to her new home. She emigrated via Halifax, Nova Scotia. A sponsor from Marquette paid her travel expenses. She came here and worked as a domestic for her sponsor to repay her debt.
Later she married Edward Wahtera. Edward worked as a foreman at Cliff Dow Chemical Plant in Marquette. The couple had four children, Edward died from the flu in 1919 when Anna was about 31 years old. Anna turned their home at 326 Summit into a boarding house to support her family.
This outfit also has the petticoat (or slip) with machine made cutwork lace.
Comparing the two outfits:
These two outfits were both made circa 1900 in Finland, and share many features. Both make use of the fabric’s selvages. The salvage is the finished edge of the fabric, on printed cotton fabric, it is often white. In the black outfit the selvage is black and white striped. In Anna’s wool outfit the selvage shows as a loop of thread which is carried up the side while weaving. Although using the selvage may look less professional, it saves time, fabric, and money and the garment is less bulky. Both were likely made by a skilled seamstress at home.
The silhouette or shape of the garments is similar with a loose blouson front with and an asymmetrical front. This was a popular silhouette in the 1890s through the 1910s. The large puffy sleeves of the wool outfit, known as “leg-o-mutton” for being shaped like a sheep’s leg, was also a popular trend. Both of the hems measure about three yards or 9 feet around. The hem of the black outfit has a stiff trim.
The brown wool outfit has a small waist which would be fitting for a young woman. The black outfit is much larger which makes sense for a middle aged woman who has had six children. The pleats on the black skirt have been let out to make it bigger.
Learn more about local people and their clothing through these subjects:
Pioneers and Immigrants | Made with Love, Reused & Recycled
Teachers and School Days | Artists & Musicians
Men at Work and Play | Hunting, Riding, and More
Pioneers and Immigrants | Made with Love, Reused & Recycled
Teachers and School Days | Artists & Musicians
Men at Work and Play | Hunting, Riding, and More